La Calleja 2018

At the last minute, they managed to send me a bottle of the 2018 La Calleja, and the wine has a very different profile from the 2016. It's still very classical, but the oaking seems to be completely different and a lot more transparent with the wine, much better integrated and adding complexity and nuance. The nose is subtle and clean, terribly elegant, but what surprised me more was the freshness in the palate, with even blood orange echoes and ultra-fine tannins, symmetric precision and laser-cut cleanliness. It has the freshness, clout and balance to develop nicely in bottle. Bravo! 5,200 bottles produced. It was bottled in June 2019.

"Barolo is our model," says Óscar Alegre of this spicy, restrained Tempranillo from Fonzaleche, pointing out that he's not afraid of tannin and acidity in the bodega's wines. Showing Nebbiolo-like aromas of rose petal and pepper spices, this is savoury, sappy and intense with a core of dark fruit and very subtle wood. 2022-28