Moncerbal 2023 en Primeur

Álvaro Palacios defines the 2023 Moncerbal as juicy and crystalline, an energetic red from 2.1 hectares in this paraje from Corullón where the soils are shallow and the vines are on steep slopes at 610 to 730 meters above sea level. It's 92% Mencía and 8% Jerez that fermented with some full clusters and indigenous yeasts in oak vats with manual punching down of the cap. It's currently aging in barrel. It's paler than the 2022 (or any other wine from 2022 or 2023) and also the most aromatic, floral, ethereal and insinuating from the whole range of 2022s and 2023s that I tasted next to it. The wines were in 12 glasses for a good two hours, and it didn't stop changing, like a chameleon; it's perfumed, showy, floral, pungent, mysterious and intoxicating... It blew me away. There is a transparency, symmetry and elegance that I didn't expect. Ricardo Pérez Palacios told me it reminded him of the 2013. This has 13.1% alcohol; most 2023s are around 13% alcohol (except the 2013 La Faraona, which has 13.5%).

Tasted en primeur and, as with Villa de Corullón, this Moncerbal was a little reduced on the nose. In contrast, the palate was remarkable: alight with vivid acidity, bright cherry and pomelo fruits, wrapped with notes of creamy chocolate and structured by very fine tannin. Enjoy it soon, but will also benefit from ageing.