Viña Tondonia Gran Reserva 2004

The 2004 Viña Tondonia Gran Reserva didn't stop growing and changing in the glass for the good three hours that lasted the tasting of the portfolio. I had tasted this wine on my previous visit (they don't usually open future Gran Reserva vintages), and I was very impressed. This was aromatic (but took some time in the glass to open up), floral, perfumed, elegant and nuanced. The year was excellent, textbook, and the grapes from Viña Tondonia were picked from the 11th of October, the dates from yesteryear. I had the exceptional 2001 Parreno two weeks before I tasted this wine, and I found many similarities between both wines. It has complex notes of forest floor, truffle, wild herbs, spices and mushrooms and a touch of iodine. This is velvety, with super elegant tannins and a supple finish. It has clout and persistence, but there's also something ethereal about it. It's full of energy, light and power. This should be almost eternal. Bravo! 24,000 bottles produced. It was bottled in November 2018.

Such a beautifully aged gran reserva that shows the more traditional side of Rioja. Dried blood orange peel, white pepper, dried thyme, iron, berries, minerals, black sesame seeds and old books. So bright and firm, with a full body and an extremely bright, lengthy finish. If I bought a bottle I’d still want to keep it for another few years. Drink or hold.

Not far behind the Tondonia white in 2004 - and that’s high praise - the red from this historic vineyard is coming into its own at 20 years of age. Aromas of dill, rose petal, incense and antique books are an alluring introduction to a palate that has chalky freshness, savoury, granular tannins, tobacco leaf, Christmas spice and red berry flavours and enough backbone to age further in bottle. 2024-35